REPLACEMENT OF LILIAL: THE CHALLENGE IS OVERCOME
Butylphenyl Methylpropional (BMHCA), also known as Lilial, is a green-floral fragrance ingredient that has been widely used in the perfume industry for years, thanks to its pleasant smell and great performance.
Thanks to advances in science and the well and conscious work of the chemical industry, more and more data is available on the ingredients used in the production of fragrances and aromas, including data focused on preserving the safety and health of the consumer.
The concentration of use of Lilial has been limited in the field of perfumery by the standards determined by IFRA (The International Fragrance Association) since 2007. However, in November 2018, the ECHA’s Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) concluded a harmonised classification of Lilial as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction).
On November 22, 2018, the ECHA’s Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) concluded on a harmonised classification and labelling for reproductive toxicity of Lysmeral® Extra (BMHCA; 2-(4-tert-Butylbenzyl) propionaldehyde).
The restriction applies to BMHCA as such, as constituent of other substances, or, in mixtures and implies in practice the following points, according to the Official Journal of the European Union:
- BMHCA cannot be placed on the market or used in products sold to the general public (consumers) when its concentration is equal or above the generic concentration limit specified in part 3 of Annex I of the EU CLP – i.e., 0.3%.
- BMHCA may be placed on the market and used in products sold for professional use above the classification concentration limit of equal or above 0.3%. In this case the packaging of such substances and mixtures has to be marked visibly, legibly, and indelibly as ‘Restricted to professional users.
This classification of the substance has been a real challenge for the perfumery industry, since the development of an alternative capable of replacing the olfactory benefits of Lilial while producing similar formula performance is a fairly complex process.
In response, Bordas is proud to announce that our team of expert perfumers has developed a substitute for Lilial, internally called Mugal.
This creation has been possible thanks to the active participation of Bordas in different entities and associations of the industry of which it is a member, allowing the Perfumery department to overcome this new regulatory challenge without significantly interfering with our clients’ formulas.
BENEFITS OF USING MUGAL IN PERFUMERY FORMULAS
Mugal is a very fresh floral-aquatic ingredient for internal use that places the Lily of the Valley accord at the heart of the composition.
After developing different proposals and having carried out tests in the different main applications, Bordas, a perfume manufacturer with more than 100 years of history, determined that the new base Mugal, is an ideal substitute that provides numerous benefits regarding the formulation of our perfumes:
- Olfactory characteristics similar to those of the Lilial.
- Very similar performance to that of Lilial, both in duration and intensity.
- Competitive price without causing a mismatch in the prices of our existing formulas.
- It guarantees stability in formulas: perfect to be used in perfumes for all types of applications, such as cosmetics, personal care, textile care, home care and air freshener products.
- Safe: It provides security of use in the different categories.
CURRENT LEGISLATION IN THE FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY
It is expected that at the end of this financial year 2022 a new amendment to the Cosmetics Regulation will be published. This new amendment will considerably increase the list of cosmetic allergens, from the current 26 allergens to 87.
Aware of this fact that is almost imminent, the fragrance manufacturer Bordas, has been internally working for years with the aim of successfully preempting this important change that all the players in the industry will face.
On the other hand, the European Commission has adopted a new strategy for chemical substances, called the Chemical Strategy for Sustainability, which is part of the European Green Deal, and the “0 pollution” framework.
It is estimated that this strategy will address more than 50 legislative and non-legislative actions between 2021 and 2024. All of this will mean a great challenge for the industry that will affect the entire value chain and for which Bordas is already working hard.
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